I am always using a whole packet of dye for a single puzzle in order to get it as black as possible.
Now I will soon be dyeing 5 different puzzles in one go. Do you think the one packet is still enough?
Do I have to make a new solution for each set? Or could I just pour more dye in after each job is finished?

I am looking forward to your answer

I use a teaspoon for 4-5 puzzles, so a pack for a puzzle seems kind of too much.
What dye do you use?

1 single teaspoon? wow. I used way too much I use RIT. about 2-3 teaspoons of salt, then the dye then the pieces.

With Dylon, I use one tin (13ml=2.5 teaspoons) for dying up to 3 puzzles.

I have a black Dylan dye. It made my puzzle turn sort of pink/brown
Well it seems I can easily dye all of my puzzles in one go. With one packaet of dye.
Thanks for your response

Great, now I feel like I wasted a ton of dye on my 5x5x1. I used two packets, and then through it all out when I was done.

I've had pretty good luck with the liquid dye as well - But I don't remember how much I used... Seems like it was still less than what a whole packet would have been.

While we are on the topic of dyeing puzzles... I'm expecting a puzzle in from Shapeways any day now which I plan in dyeing black. I've not done this before and I'm not expecting it to be too difficult but any tips/pointers I should know. i.e. what is the best way to clean the puzzle before dyeing? Best kind of dye? I was thinking RIT dye. Any critical details like time and temperature? Once dyed is it just the surface that is black? For example it you plan on polishing surfaces to apply stickers I assume those surfaces should be polished before its dyed? If there is already a tread here with all these basics please feel free to point me there. I think I may have also see a video on this topic a while back.

Thanks,
Carl

Couple of pointers - use salt in the mix - helps the dye stick. The longer you leave the pieces in the dye, the darker it will get. I found the whole process fairly easy actually, and mostly just followed the directions on the RIT dye...

use a deep pan/ pot. You dont want any dye on your kitchen table.
wash the pieces if soapy water before dyeing.

boild up water (not too much ( I use about a liter or two). When its boiling put salt in. A good amount - more than with cooking but dont overdose it. (a couple of teaspoons). When the salt is resolved in the water, then you can just turn down the heat so it just boils. Then add your dye. Stir the solution to make sure no dye is clustered. An then carefully pour the pieces in, not trying to splash the dye solution.
I watch them in all the time they are in. Stiring them. It takes not much time for them to catch the color. In fact only a second in and its almost completely black. I think its good to let them stay in for a couple of minutes to make the dye sink into the piece further. I have no idea how this is possible tho.

Good luck with your dyeing

Most important thing: WEAR GLOVES!!!!!

Ahh... good point. Which makes me wonder... do the pieces need to be sealed after dyeing? Any concern about the dye coming off on your hands after the pieces are dry?

Carl

Drewseph said he had to stop making puzzles because the dye did stuff to his skin/nerves. Don't know if this is proven to be link to the dye though or if he just allergic or what.
viewtopic.php?t=20585

I would not try to sand/polish the puzzle pieces before dying, as this will almost certainly mean the pieces will not dye very well, in my experience. And you can't really sand/polish them after dying, because the dye only penetrates a very small distance into WSF and sanding exposes the white.

I have had pretty good results with polishing both before and after dyeing. But I dont see any reason why the pieces wouldnt take on the dye if they were polished first. Trust me you can dye top shiny plastic.

I only note that Shapeways do not offer BSF polished. I do not know if this is because the parts do not polish well after dying, or they cannot dye polished parts or some other reason.

Perhaps someone can write a detailed set of instructions for RIT/Dylon. Things like:

Piece preparation (washing, soaking, polishing).
Dye concentrations per volume (area?) of pieces.
Salt concentration.
Dying time and temperature.
Can dye solution be re-used?

I thought Eric did that a while ago... let me find the link....

Here it is: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17762&start=0

-Eitan