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 Post subject: Help me understand something please
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 4:45 pm 
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I went here(http://www.speedcubing.com/final_layer_ ... flips.html) to try to solve the last layer but I don't understand what they mean (I read the notes at the bottom). By using what is on that page I can solve the last layer just by doing 1 of those sequences right? Should I be learning this or should I learn something else?

I'm just lost on how to solve the last layer fast. I've seen pictures with arrows and I've seen sites with 1211 things to memorize to solve the cube. I can solve the last layer with a simple method (get cross, get corners in the right place, then get the corners flipped right by doing R'D'RD over and over and over)

How many sequences (they are called algorithms aren't they?) would I have to learn to do the last layer?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just lost.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:05 am 
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Hey, in my opinion, the best page to start is on Jasmine Lee's beginners solution
http://www.geocities.com/jasmine_ellen/ ... ution.html

Now here's the thing. The method that you're using for the last layer uses waay too many twists. Start by using learning the last layer according to Jasmine, it should speed you up and get you used to recognizing specific cases. After that, there are links at the bottom to tell you how to take what you've learned there and add to it.

TBTTyler


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:26 pm 
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Yeah, I was having to do a lot of moves. Especially that stupid R'D'RD thing. You usually have to do it 2 - 6 times to get the corner where you want it.

About learning Jasmine's method....am I going to have a hard time switching from mine to hers and then switching to learning those 78 algorithms for the last layer?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:52 pm 
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Thats a notation that I dont quite grasp.
I'm pretty sure the algs are for when the 4 edges are flipped the right way.

How has it been going with the first two layers?


I'm using "old" algs to orient the last layer (OLL) while I learn the PLL, which is much smaller than 70. http://www.speedcubing.com/final_layer_permutation.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 8:34 pm 
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I use R'D'RD on the first layer after getting the cross. I leave the cross on top then get the corner I need below the front right top corner I'm working on then do that. I also do the same thing on the final layer after getting the cross on top and it works every time.

The first layer sucks, finding edges for the cross, the R'D'RD, and the URUiRiUiFiUF or UiFiUFURUiRi to get the middle layer edges seems like it takes me 2 or 3 minutes but when I'm focused I probably do that part in 50 secs to 1 minute.

Yeah, I'm planning to stick with the method I'm using to do F2L and learn the last layer stuff and after I'm good with that I guess I'll learn the corner edges thing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 8:59 pm 
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Putting the cross on the bottom or left will help.
You can then do finger tricks with corners and edges.

http://www.speedcubing.com/f2l_crossbottom.html

Look at code: a02


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:05 pm 
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Good video of finger tricks

http://www.math.leidenuniv.nl/~jnoort/i ... =tutorial6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 4:46 pm 
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I've been trying to switch to putting the cross on the bottom but it is hard. I had to change the way I did some things. R'D'RD was replaced with R'U'RU and R'UF'U' (for flipping an upside down edge piece on the right) was replaced with RD'FD.

Those finger tricks were cool. I'll have to start using those when I get my cube to turn smoother. Right now it is hard to turn it. I don't see how using that silicon spray or the KY liquid stuff will make it turn easier. It seems like it's more of an internal problem. I took the top layer cubes out except for one and turned it around and found that once it hit the orange side it was hard to turn it. Is 1:30 - 2:00 good for a non-smooth cube and for using that simple method?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 5:10 pm 
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I honestly didn't see any advantage for the silicone spray... that is until I used it. The difference for me was night and day.

However, if you believe that the problem is more mechanical, then it may be of some advantage to do a bit of sanding on the inner parts of the cube.

Each cubie has the main cube and the extra parts. Just go through and make sure that the extra parts don't have any edges to hang on, and then round out the parts that other cubies will slide along.
Sometimes the tolerances will be off and the piece, no matter how perfect, will be squeezed enough to inhibit motion. And if your cube, after sanding everything else, is still sticking, I would recommend sanding the sides of the center pieces to allow more tolerance.

After all that sanding, make sure to reapply the silicone.

TBTTyler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 6:47 pm 
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AndrewSeven wrote:
I'm using "old" algs to orient the last layer (OLL) while I learn the PLL, which is much smaller than 70.


Forgive me, yet I am honestly curious about this as I am also trying to learn about combination moves. Is it correct, then, that one would need to memorize all 70 moves in order to get quicker on the LL so that they can get away from using the R'D'RD method?

Thanks!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 8:55 pm 
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Quote:
Is it correct, then, that one would need to memorize all 70 moves in order to get quicker on the LL so that they can get away from using the R'D'RD method?


Absolutely not!
The group of 70 algorithms is for a 2 look last layer. For instance, you look at the last layer once, and then orient the corners AND edges with an alg. Then you look at it again, and then permute the corners AND edges with a second alg.
Many people use a 3 or a 4 look last layer.
The 3 and 4 look last layers use specific algs taken from the list of 70.
For a true 4 look(where you Don't repeat any algs), you would need:

3 that flip edges:
straight line across - F (RU R'U') F'
little "L" - F (RU R'U')(RU R'U') F'
no edges correct - LFR (U2 R')(U2 R)(U2 R'F'L')

7 that twist corners (sune, antisune, double sune, the cross "on heel", 2 to one side, 2 to opposite sides, figure 8)
Sune - R U R' U R U2 R'
Antisune - R U2 R' U' R U' R'
Double Sune - R U R' U R U' R' U R U2 R'
Cross on heel - R U2 R2 U' R2 U' R2 U2 R
2 to one side - F2D'FU2F'DFU2F
2 to opposite - R'F'LFRF'L'F
figure 8 - R'F'L'FRF'LF

4 for permuting edges (M' means the vertical slice in the front goes UP):
switch across -M2 U' M2 U2 M2 U' M2
switch adjacent - R B' R' B F R' B' F R' B R F2 U
3 cycle CW - F2 U M' U2 M U F2
3 cycle CW - F2 U' M' U2 M U' F2

3 for permuting corners
3 cycle CW - R' F R' B2 R F' R' B2 R2
3 cycle CCW - R2 B2 R F R' B2 R F' R
Adjacent swap (I honestly just do 3cycle CCW, turn cube Counter clockwise, 3 cycle CCW)

For a grand total of 17 algs. (well, really 16 the way I did it)

To figure out what you're actually looking for, just do the alg over and over till it solves itself. Whatever it looked like before it was solved is what you're looking for.

TBTTyler Fox


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 9:18 pm 
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TBTTyler wrote:
4 for permuting edges (M' means the vertical slice in the front goes UP):
switch across -M2 U' M2 U2 M2 U' M2


Um, isn't U2 sufficient?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 11:25 pm 
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LOL, Nice catch :oops:
I made the mistake of putting the edges before the corners, which I usually do the other way around.

then I guess I should add to the corner perms
Switch Diagonal Corners
M2 U' M2 U2 M2 U' M2 U2

Fox


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